Day 89

This morning we woke up and were greeted by a beautiful sunrise and a heavy fog that blanketed the river.  Thanks to Bird we were able to feast on scrambled eggs, toast, and oranges!  Dave was like a kid on Christmas, all smiles.  It's funny how the little things like eggs and toast can be so great, so special when life gets boiled down to its component parts.  Just as we were finishing breakfast Charlie pulled up.  We loaded into his truck with Dave and Reggie in the back.  Reggie was unsure about riding in the back but he ended doing fine.  We stopped off at Charlie's house.  He offered us a shower and although we would be sweaty and sticky by the end of the day I was not going to pass one up, it was glorious!  After showering we headed to the store leaving our electronics plugged in at his house.  Once again Dave and Reggie road in the back.  As we were about to go into the store Dave realized that he left our wallet at Charlie's house, ahh!  So while Charlie and Dave went back to the house to get the wallet I started shopping.  After they returned I had already finished and in no time we were back on the the river and thankfully the fog lifted.  Shortly after leaving Paulina the same hectic intensity of industry resumed as we approached New Orleans.  Around noon the sky's began to darken as rain storms closed in on us and the winds increased.  The entire day we wound our way through the industrial chaos of this section of the river all the while getting rained on.  The ship and barge traffic was intense. As the rain continued Dave continually told me to put on my rain jacket but I refused because of the significant degree of anxiety that I was experiencing as a result of the intense traffic, wind, and waves.  We ended up stopping early t0day because we were both soaking wet and we were fried.  The ships, the wind, the waves...when they all come together at the same time it's scary for me.  The way my eyes works changes the picture of what's happening.  I don't make it a point to tell everyone I meet or highlight it at all really but I have a visual impairment called Stargardts.  Stargardts is a genetic disorder effecting the roads and cones in the eyes which significantly impairs central vision and thus peripheral vision is clearest.  If you look at a tree from 400ft away on a foggy day that's how I would see the tree from 20ft away on a clear day.  When we enter busy areas where the ship traffic and barge traffic is heavy they would at times look like they were coming directly at us although they weren't. Dave does a good job reassuring me that we are ok and that the ships are not going to run into us.  He would tell me where they were ahead of time and what he believed thier trajectory to be.  As we paddled through the Gauntlet ( the busy industrial section between Baton Rouge and New Orleans) Dave would update me of any and all traffic north and south of us then advise where we needed to go or what side I should paddle on.  Kinda like a human radar.  The truth is most people don't realize that I have a visual disability.  I'm Amanda first my vision does define who I am it's just a part of me.  That's the way I live and how my parents, my siblings, my husband and his family treat me.

Sunrise in Pualina Louisiana

The morning started out with eggs, toast, and fruit.

Dave was very excited for eggs !! 

Well done Dave !! 

A list of the Industry that you go through from Baton Rouge through New Orleans

Repairs on the tent 

Smile 

The door that no longer works 

Day 90

Today started out a little calmer however that changed.  As we paddled ever closer to New Orleans the right side of the river became congested but the left side was clear.  As such we made the uncharacteristic decision to cross the channel to the left side which seemed, oddly enough to be devoid of any traffic.  Typically the left side is jammed with ships crew boats, and big tug boats.  We attempted to radio a south bound ship but no response.  As we crossed the ship captain called a north bound ship saying "hey there are two jackasses in a canoe crossing to the east side. Idiots should have stayed where they were!"  At this Dave became pretty frustrated but responded with a surprising amount of poise when he said, "hey these jackasses have a radio and we have been trying to contact you to figure out where we should go and we would appreciate better communication!"  At this the radios fell silent.  The message had been sent.  As we approached the bridge another captain who likely heard the preceding conversation told us that it was difficult to hear us on the radio.  The truth is that most of the ship captains and a good number of barge captains are pretty nice and want us to get through safely as much as we do.  The rude and indignant ones are few far and in between.  We stopped just past and I mean only a couple hundred yards past the HWY 90 bridge in New Orleans and camped along the levy.  This will be our first and last stealth camp...I hope.  In bed by 5pm.

Day 88

Today we paddled through what can only be described has industrial hell!  People always talk about Baton Rouge but today we paddled through what has thus far the heaviest and most stressful section of industry thus far.  The morning started out busy with numerous barges, tugs, and a couple ships which was very manageable.  However as we rounded the corner above Donaldsonville, LA we were greeted by a dozen or more container ships, oil tankers, cargo ships and countless barges, towes, tugs, pilot ships, and crew boats!  The waters churned creating waves which came from every direction as a result of the frenzy of traffic.  We stuck to our typical route along the right descending bank outside of the fleet barges (parked barge containers that are organized into larger strings or barges to be brought up river by larges towe boats).  We started about 50-100 yards out from them but because of the complex movement of other large boats we were having to navigate closer than normal which caused our line of sight to be blocked.  As a large ship passed us a voice came over the radio to a north bound towe boat.  "There is a canoe abreast of me RIGHT NOW!  Swing wide or your gonna run right into them!"

My heart sank and a wave adrenaline washed over me.  I immediately got on the radio telling the ship captain that I could hear him and asked what needed to happen.  "You need to get wide immediately to avoid this barge headed toward you."  We did quickly and could see what he was talking about although I could see a small route we could have taken and been fine!   Not doubting the captain I swung our canoe wide to the middle of the channel thus avoiding the north bound towe.  As we paddled on the captain told us that just a month ago or so he saw the same thing happen to two guys in a canoe who drowned.  However, they didn't because they had just recently got back on the river and were finishing thier trip.  Not feeling the need to make this superfluous correction I thanks the captain for his guidance and paddled on.  This port was exhausting mentally.  After passing through Donaldsonville Amanda's anxiety was through the roof and my nerves were shot and my knees felt like Jelly.  Our goal today was to make Paulina, LA which is a perfectly placed respite for the weary paddler.  Encouraged by the knowledge that a guaranteed safe campsite and likely some much needed southern hospitality awaited us we paddled on.  Exhausted and cranky we rounded the corner and there it was, the big white sign which read in big bold letters "WELCOME PADDLERS mi 149 Paulina, LA". We were stoked and  paddled up to the shore gave each other a big high five and a hug!  We took a picture next to the sign as is the custom and began to unload our boat.  I was surprised to see that no one was around, however no sooner did I say it Charlie Poche came cruising over the top of the levy in a suped up golf cart.  He was great!  He greeted us with a big smile and told us to set up wherever.  As we began to unload more people came, all of whom were related to Charlie.  Bird and Tyler were the first to arrive and assured me they would keep Amanda safe while Charlie and I went to fill of our water jugs.  When I returned Amanda set up the tent while myself, Dwayne and Caleb gathered material and started a fire.  As we set up we talked with Bird, Tyler, Doug, Trixie, Dwayne, and Caleb.  Caleb asked if we were hungry and fixed us up a plate of his famous Pastalia which is Jumbalia but with noodles instead of rice.  It was amazing.  We all talked well into the night (although in reality it was probably only 9 or 10pm) and went to bed filled with a great sense of appreciation for the incredible hospitality that the Poche family extended to us and a great sense of appreciation.  Tomorrow Charlie is going to take us to the store so we can buy what should be the last bit of supplies we need.

Paulina Louisiana

We were super excited to get here because of all the river traffic.  It was a bit stressful for me (Amanda).

Amanda , Charlie and Dave 

Charlie was very helpful as well as his other family members which you read about 

Southern hospitality to a "T" 

Tyler and Bird 

Tyler I hope you paddle the Mississippi some day with your dad!!! 

Thanks Bird for the eggs ,bread ,fruit and wine which we drank when we reached the Gulf!

Caleb and Dwayne helping us get a frie going 

Trixie and Doug. Helping bring over frie wood 

Caleb's famous Pastalia 

Reggie Report: Day 87

Baton Rouge Louisiana

Today started with what could, had we not opened he door, have been the end of th world.  The sounds of large machanical monsters that shook the ground and thrashed the waters shook us violently and suddenly from our sleep this morning (likely around 2am).  Lights flashing and metal pounding against metal caused me the have to order my fearful humans to stop quivering and look to see what all the hubbub was about.  They zipped the kennel door open and saw a large barge being swarmed by floating towers of lights which quickly ripped it into several small pieces scurrying away into the darkness.  While this was going on I ordered my brave humans to bring the boat closer in case one of the barges were placed along the side of the river that we were camped on.  My concern was that if a barge was anchored near by it could damage the floating kennel.  After about an hour or so things went quiet and we were soon back to sleep.  This morning we were all quite tired so we slept in a bit.  The humans picked a rather poor campsite (clearly) and as such I could only take momma for a short walk while dad heated his back.  Once on the water things went amazingly well.  As we paddled into Baton Rouge there was hardly any boat traffic except for a couple small barges and a few harbor towes.  The sky was dark with smog from the multitude of petrochemical plants which lined the shores.  Paddling further into Baton Rouge we saw two large oil tankers parked along the river.  One of the two ships passed us as we left Baton Rouge and much to our surprise threw hardly any wake, less infact then barges and pleasure craft.  The remainder of the day we paddled past countless factories which spewed chemicals into the air and the water. No more drinking out of the river according to the humans although I sneak a a drink when I can.  Towards the end of the day I observed some very strange human behavior.  While rounding a corner a small tug was heading north and passed close by.  Anyway as we passed, the captain stepped away from the controls, took out his phone and began taking pictures or a video of us.  How strange.  If anything we should have been filming him!  Other than that the day went by in typical fashion.  Dads back must being feeling better because he and momma were able to make it 46 miles today!  That's the most they have managed since pappa hurt his back.  They are good humans and are now only 192 miles from completing this adventure.

Baton Rouge

Amanda's willow beard 

The whole family of beards

What happened? 

She still has a good Verd! 

Willow tree

Look closel...

Sunset

Sunset 

Day 86

Paddling today went quiet well.  We woke up early got on the water by 730 and despite a coulple wind gusts it was calm.  By 230 we made about 37 miles which put us just 3 miles above Baton Rouge.  We debated going for it but we were concerned about how long it would take us to get through the city and availability of camping below the city.  As a result we stopped early figuring that having all day to get through Baton Rouge would be a better option.  We currently have about 5 days left, give or take a couple days and with Daves shoulder in less than perfect condition it's best to play it safe.  Anyway we happened to find he most janky campsite yet!  We are on a tiny cleared out patched of dirt across from a couple dozen parked barges and surrounded by poison ivy, poison oak and I'm pretty sure poison sumac!  As if that wasn't awesome enough our one working tent zipper broke!  Wouldn't zip closed!  In Wisconsin in November this wouldn't be much a problem just a bit more chilly at worst.  In Louisiana however, big problem.  The mosquitoes here are insane!  They are so so much worse than they are in Wisconsin!  We were getting mobbed!  We are used to such annoyances but these little buggers take it to a whole new level.  Anyway as we climbed into the tent to eat dinner hoping to get away from them we found ourselves in a mesh cage of terror.  After cleaning up dishes Dave climbed in nearly have a panic attack with the combo of being very hot and being bombarded by mosquitoes.  Finally after complaining about it for 20min he got up grabbed the multi tool and managed to fix the zipper,  effectively saving the night and our sanity!  Anyway tomorrow we paddle through Baton Rouge and pass one of the last major hurtles on this epically difficult and wonderful adventure!

Day 85

Today we paddled 43 miles, the most since Dave hurt his shoulder.  However, aside from that there is very little worth mentioning.  Today we talked a lot about the trip thus far and reflected on good and bad times on our trip.  A specific topic that we wanted to spend a bit of time talking about is expedition fatigue.  Expedition fatigue typically occurs towards the end of long expeditions when the end goal is within reach but far enough out that there is no use in getting too excited about it. This can manifest in different ways for all of us ranging from irritation with details or increased risk taking.  For us it has taken many of these forms.  A prime example of this is cleaning up dishes and preparing food and such for the following day.  It's not something that takes a lot of time nor does it require any significant physical or mental effort.  However,  in the moment it's annoying.  Today it was the wind!  Yes it was gusty and yes it was a challenge at times to maneuver but it created far more frustration then warranted.  So, here we are 272 miles remaining!  That's less than 40 miles each day for 7 days!  The end is near and have Baton Rouge and New Orleans as our last major obstacles.  It's bitter sweet, it's invigorating yet daunting.  There is however one fact that we keep in our minds and that keeps us moving forward:  there is and end and we will get there.

Sunrise 

More sunrise 

What we found at our campsite 

Day 84

There really isn't a whole lot to say about today.  We woke up at around 6, heated Daves shoulder, had breakfast and we're off. It was gusty right off the bat this morning which wasn't the most inspiring and continued that way all day.  It was great that Daves shoulder, despite being a bit sore did really well today.  We switched sides often and balanced each other's paddling very well.  Just before we stopped for lunch we were waived ashore by some dude wearing camouflage and driving an ATV.  We were not sure what he wanted but we paddled over any way.  His name was Patrick and he was hunting nearby, had seen our canoe and wanted to find out what we were all about.  We chatted for a bit and were on our way.  He was a really nice guy and had invited us to his hunting camp for dinner but we declined in the interest of making more miles and also the desire to get back to our normal routine.  It was no record breaking day but we made 30 miles even though we stopped at 3pm because of the wind, and paddled against a stout head wind all day.  We called our families when we got to camp and wished them all a happy thanksgiving and it was great to hear thier voices.  While we ate dinner we listed the things we were greatful  for.  We are currently at RM 315.  It is crazy how close we are yet we have many more Miles to go. 

Amanda , Patrick and Dave