Day 94

Well today is the day!  The day we make our final paddle strokes, load the boat one last time, tell Reggie to get in the middle of the boat once more!  Conditions were perfect, the water was glassy and smooth.  Not a breath of wind.  The paddled felt lite in our hands and the boat seemed to glide through the water effortlessly.  Within a couple hours we had paddled 9 miles to mile zero in the Head of Passes.  This is the point at which the river splits into three main passes as it flows its its final miles to the Gulf of Mexico.  I was blown away at the size of the Head of Passes.  The scale was far greater than I had expected.  At first I was unsure where the South pass was.  I could clearly see the Southwest pass and the Pass A Loutre neither of which are recommended.  The Southwest pass is the route of choice for commercial ships and Pass A  Loutre is not used by many people at all which is a problem because we were hoping to hitch a ride back to Venice.  As we made our way through the pass the South Pass became apparent.  Although the current had slowed significantly the water was smooth and it was quite again, finally.  The river felt like ours again!  We were back to day one when we were surrounded by miles of grassland.  The only difference now was that we were surrounded by miles of cane.  We were silent as we paddled down the glassy waterway getting closer and closer to the Gulf.  As paddled we could see the lighthouse at Port Eads which stands at the end of the pass.  As we cruised by the shoreline ended opening up to a limitless horizon peppered with huge breaking waves.  We shouted with excitement as we neared.  We were soon at the point where salt water mixes with the muddy waters of the Mississippi!  We looked around for a beach to stop on, take some pictures and celebrate our amazing accomplishment!  Unfortunately the water was high and all we found was a muddy shoreline covered with cane.  We tried to walk down further but were stopped by a large snake.  Disappointed we jumped in the boat and decided we would try to take a picture from the boat! Well the combination of waves breaking over the rocks at the end of the pass and trying to use a selfie stick for the first time made it nearly impossible to get a picture.  Just as we were about to give up a boat pulled up.  We asked them to take a picture of us and then told them that we had just finished paddling the entire Mississippi!  They took our pictures and offered to pull us around to a small bit of beach where we could get out and get a picture.  We did and they were great!  Lisa, Robert, and Roxie were out for the day visiting their son Kyle who worked at Port Eads.  After we finished the pictures Robert asked if we were hungry then told me to hand him my radio.  I did and he promptly radioed Port Eads and told them he had a couple paddlers who were hungry and that he should fix them a burger!  We were stokked!  As if this wasn't awesome enough he then asked if we needed a ride back to Venice!!!  This was amazing, after all the people who helped us, there was more river magic coming our way!  As we rode to Port Eads we couldn't stop smiling, laughing and thanking them!    We ate the burgers at Port Eads giggling with joy and excitement!  Not only had we finished an amazing journey that tested us in every way as individuals and a couple, but now these amazing people bought us lunch and a couple t-shirts!  After eating Amanda and I wandered around Port Eads in awe of what had just happened!  When Robert and Lisa were ready we all loaded into thier boat and headed back to Venice.  On the way we chatted about everything from what we did for work to family.  When we got back to Venice we learned it wouldn't be possible stay at the hotel at the Marina.  The only option was The Lighthouse Lodge 10 miles away!  I told Robert that would figure a way for us to get our stuff to the hotel and thanked him for all his help.  At that Lisa and Robert gave me a confused look and said something along the lines of "why?  We got a truck.  We will take you to the hotel."  What!!!! Are you serious?!?! I couldn't believe it.  We were so incredibly greatful and appreciative for the kindness these three people had shown us!  Robert was going to drop us off so we gave Lisa and Roxie a big hug and thanked them.  After Robert dropped us off we thanked him again and off he went.  

We finished 

The Mississippi to the Gulf 

Almost there 

port Eads 

Thanks Kyle this was awesome!! 

Banana Trees along the Mississippi 

The awesome Fortenberry's!  

   Roxie Robert  Kyle      Lisa

Day 93

 Today started off as most days and soon we were on the water and were immediately greeted by a east/northeast wind.  At first it was just loud and wasn't creating any chop. This changed suddenly and for no apparent reason near Boothville. As we rounded the corner the waves were breaking against our boat.  Luckily things settled down as soon as they started.  When we arrived at "The Jump" a pass that brings you into Venice and contemplated paddling to Venice but instead decided to paddle a little further down and make camp along the river.  The site we found looked pretty cool.  It was on a high patch on ground with lots of Ball Cypress in the water and a neat swamp behind it.  We pulled up and examined the ground.  It looked pretty dry but for some reason there were areas that were damp, odd.  We figured that whatever the reason that it had been quite some time since it last happened because all the wood on the ground was dry.  We set up and the rest of the evening went on as any other.  However, in the middle of the night the question about the sand was answered when Amanda shouted, "Water! Dave get up I hear water!"  I jumped up looked outside and saw huge waves crashing on the beach as water was receding from around our tent.  The damp sand you see was from huge waves breaking against the shore and when big enough made it all the way up to where our tent was! Luckily and for reasons I don't fully understand the water stopped just inches from our tent.  Although our tent remained dry we decided to move it over a couple feet to another dry spot, just in case.  Tomorrow we paddle to the Gulf!!!

Day 92

Today was great mostly because there wa very little ship traffic and in many ways it felt like the early days of our trip.  Although still quite wide the river has taken on a more natural feel.  As the day wound down we looked for a campsite and poked into any little inlet we could find.  We finally came across a great spot right along the levy.  It was very protected from the channel and had a little bayou around it.  The landing was the best we have had in a long time and had contemplated not even taking the boat out of he water but did anyway.  We made dinner and settled into bed at a good time.  Overall a great day of paddling.  At an out 1am we were rudely awakened by the sound of a truck driving up over the levy right behind us. I looked up to see a truck speeding down the levy away from us, the occupants stopped twice and seemed to take aim a something particularl along the river and shot at it twice.  We were both pretty nervous when we lay back down.  A short time later the truck returned but spotted us this time.  They were surprised to see a tent which was clear by the choice of four letter words they shouted at us attempting to gain our attention.  I hesitated but then looked out again fearing that if I didn't they would escalate thier approach to getting our attention.  They swore at me more then sped off.  We were both very concerned they may return but thankfully we fell asleep.

Stopped for lunch 

Our campsite for the night 

Day 91

Today we finally paddled through New Orleans!  We woke up early and things went pretty smooth as we prepared to push off until I reached down to turn on my radio.  It was gone!  Somehow while loading the boat it fell out of the pocket in my PFD where it had been in for the past 90 days!  What the heck!?!? Thankfully Amanda still had hers.  We shoved off and a bit nervously paddled into New Orleans.  Much to our surprise he port of New Orleans was easy, not too busy at all!  Seems to happen that way, Baton Rouge was the same.  As we paddled the wind picked up and as we passed under a bridge the water became very choppy as the wind howled.  I got frustrated and said some choice words which could not have been timed worse because Amanda was already very anxious about the wind and waves and had thought something was going terribly wrong and began to cry.  I quickly realized my error and told her we were fine and just to keep paddling.  Aside from that our passage through New Orleans was uneventful!  We stayed along the right side of the river but far enough out to maintain a good line of sight.  When we looked at the maps the right side looked like the best route however, to ease our minds we reached out to our fellow paddlers and thankfully they confirmed that the right side would be the best route. At lunch we stopped and contacted Mitch Selby and Malcolm Reed, two through paddlers who were very close behind us.  Turns out they were just putting back on the river in New Orleans after stopping for thanksgiving with Mitch's family.  As we paddled on the boat traffic for the first time in four days was dwindling rapidly!!!! Wootwoot!  As we paddled along a barge captain that looked like a rivery version of Willie Nelson waved at and radioed, "If she is crazy enough to get in a canoe and paddle down the river with your crazy ass then she is a keeper!"  Amanda and I instantly burst into laughter.  We paddled a full day and found a nice spot along the levy that was tucked away from the river and hidden from the town on the other side.  After dinner as we were putting things away the river instantly lit up.  We ran over to see a Carnival Cruise ship passing by.  It looked like the sky had been put on its side and was floating down the river.

Yep that is a ship behind Dave...he likes blue ships

Day 89

This morning we woke up and were greeted by a beautiful sunrise and a heavy fog that blanketed the river.  Thanks to Bird we were able to feast on scrambled eggs, toast, and oranges!  Dave was like a kid on Christmas, all smiles.  It's funny how the little things like eggs and toast can be so great, so special when life gets boiled down to its component parts.  Just as we were finishing breakfast Charlie pulled up.  We loaded into his truck with Dave and Reggie in the back.  Reggie was unsure about riding in the back but he ended doing fine.  We stopped off at Charlie's house.  He offered us a shower and although we would be sweaty and sticky by the end of the day I was not going to pass one up, it was glorious!  After showering we headed to the store leaving our electronics plugged in at his house.  Once again Dave and Reggie road in the back.  As we were about to go into the store Dave realized that he left our wallet at Charlie's house, ahh!  So while Charlie and Dave went back to the house to get the wallet I started shopping.  After they returned I had already finished and in no time we were back on the the river and thankfully the fog lifted.  Shortly after leaving Paulina the same hectic intensity of industry resumed as we approached New Orleans.  Around noon the sky's began to darken as rain storms closed in on us and the winds increased.  The entire day we wound our way through the industrial chaos of this section of the river all the while getting rained on.  The ship and barge traffic was intense. As the rain continued Dave continually told me to put on my rain jacket but I refused because of the significant degree of anxiety that I was experiencing as a result of the intense traffic, wind, and waves.  We ended up stopping early t0day because we were both soaking wet and we were fried.  The ships, the wind, the waves...when they all come together at the same time it's scary for me.  The way my eyes works changes the picture of what's happening.  I don't make it a point to tell everyone I meet or highlight it at all really but I have a visual impairment called Stargardts.  Stargardts is a genetic disorder effecting the roads and cones in the eyes which significantly impairs central vision and thus peripheral vision is clearest.  If you look at a tree from 400ft away on a foggy day that's how I would see the tree from 20ft away on a clear day.  When we enter busy areas where the ship traffic and barge traffic is heavy they would at times look like they were coming directly at us although they weren't. Dave does a good job reassuring me that we are ok and that the ships are not going to run into us.  He would tell me where they were ahead of time and what he believed thier trajectory to be.  As we paddled through the Gauntlet ( the busy industrial section between Baton Rouge and New Orleans) Dave would update me of any and all traffic north and south of us then advise where we needed to go or what side I should paddle on.  Kinda like a human radar.  The truth is most people don't realize that I have a visual disability.  I'm Amanda first my vision does define who I am it's just a part of me.  That's the way I live and how my parents, my siblings, my husband and his family treat me.

Sunrise in Pualina Louisiana

The morning started out with eggs, toast, and fruit.

Dave was very excited for eggs !! 

Well done Dave !! 

A list of the Industry that you go through from Baton Rouge through New Orleans

Repairs on the tent 

Smile 

The door that no longer works 

Day 90

Today started out a little calmer however that changed.  As we paddled ever closer to New Orleans the right side of the river became congested but the left side was clear.  As such we made the uncharacteristic decision to cross the channel to the left side which seemed, oddly enough to be devoid of any traffic.  Typically the left side is jammed with ships crew boats, and big tug boats.  We attempted to radio a south bound ship but no response.  As we crossed the ship captain called a north bound ship saying "hey there are two jackasses in a canoe crossing to the east side. Idiots should have stayed where they were!"  At this Dave became pretty frustrated but responded with a surprising amount of poise when he said, "hey these jackasses have a radio and we have been trying to contact you to figure out where we should go and we would appreciate better communication!"  At this the radios fell silent.  The message had been sent.  As we approached the bridge another captain who likely heard the preceding conversation told us that it was difficult to hear us on the radio.  The truth is that most of the ship captains and a good number of barge captains are pretty nice and want us to get through safely as much as we do.  The rude and indignant ones are few far and in between.  We stopped just past and I mean only a couple hundred yards past the HWY 90 bridge in New Orleans and camped along the levy.  This will be our first and last stealth camp...I hope.  In bed by 5pm.

Day 88

Today we paddled through what can only be described has industrial hell!  People always talk about Baton Rouge but today we paddled through what has thus far the heaviest and most stressful section of industry thus far.  The morning started out busy with numerous barges, tugs, and a couple ships which was very manageable.  However as we rounded the corner above Donaldsonville, LA we were greeted by a dozen or more container ships, oil tankers, cargo ships and countless barges, towes, tugs, pilot ships, and crew boats!  The waters churned creating waves which came from every direction as a result of the frenzy of traffic.  We stuck to our typical route along the right descending bank outside of the fleet barges (parked barge containers that are organized into larger strings or barges to be brought up river by larges towe boats).  We started about 50-100 yards out from them but because of the complex movement of other large boats we were having to navigate closer than normal which caused our line of sight to be blocked.  As a large ship passed us a voice came over the radio to a north bound towe boat.  "There is a canoe abreast of me RIGHT NOW!  Swing wide or your gonna run right into them!"

My heart sank and a wave adrenaline washed over me.  I immediately got on the radio telling the ship captain that I could hear him and asked what needed to happen.  "You need to get wide immediately to avoid this barge headed toward you."  We did quickly and could see what he was talking about although I could see a small route we could have taken and been fine!   Not doubting the captain I swung our canoe wide to the middle of the channel thus avoiding the north bound towe.  As we paddled on the captain told us that just a month ago or so he saw the same thing happen to two guys in a canoe who drowned.  However, they didn't because they had just recently got back on the river and were finishing thier trip.  Not feeling the need to make this superfluous correction I thanks the captain for his guidance and paddled on.  This port was exhausting mentally.  After passing through Donaldsonville Amanda's anxiety was through the roof and my nerves were shot and my knees felt like Jelly.  Our goal today was to make Paulina, LA which is a perfectly placed respite for the weary paddler.  Encouraged by the knowledge that a guaranteed safe campsite and likely some much needed southern hospitality awaited us we paddled on.  Exhausted and cranky we rounded the corner and there it was, the big white sign which read in big bold letters "WELCOME PADDLERS mi 149 Paulina, LA". We were stoked and  paddled up to the shore gave each other a big high five and a hug!  We took a picture next to the sign as is the custom and began to unload our boat.  I was surprised to see that no one was around, however no sooner did I say it Charlie Poche came cruising over the top of the levy in a suped up golf cart.  He was great!  He greeted us with a big smile and told us to set up wherever.  As we began to unload more people came, all of whom were related to Charlie.  Bird and Tyler were the first to arrive and assured me they would keep Amanda safe while Charlie and I went to fill of our water jugs.  When I returned Amanda set up the tent while myself, Dwayne and Caleb gathered material and started a fire.  As we set up we talked with Bird, Tyler, Doug, Trixie, Dwayne, and Caleb.  Caleb asked if we were hungry and fixed us up a plate of his famous Pastalia which is Jumbalia but with noodles instead of rice.  It was amazing.  We all talked well into the night (although in reality it was probably only 9 or 10pm) and went to bed filled with a great sense of appreciation for the incredible hospitality that the Poche family extended to us and a great sense of appreciation.  Tomorrow Charlie is going to take us to the store so we can buy what should be the last bit of supplies we need.

Paulina Louisiana

We were super excited to get here because of all the river traffic.  It was a bit stressful for me (Amanda).

Amanda , Charlie and Dave 

Charlie was very helpful as well as his other family members which you read about 

Southern hospitality to a "T" 

Tyler and Bird 

Tyler I hope you paddle the Mississippi some day with your dad!!! 

Thanks Bird for the eggs ,bread ,fruit and wine which we drank when we reached the Gulf!

Caleb and Dwayne helping us get a frie going 

Trixie and Doug. Helping bring over frie wood 

Caleb's famous Pastalia